宋朝服饰文化特点论文1（Song Dynasty, clothing culture, characteristics, thesis 1）

宋朝服饰文化特点1（Song Dynasty, clothing culture, characteristics, thesis 1） 宋朝服饰文化特点论文1(Song Dynasty, clothing culture, characteristics, thesis 1) A little dragonfly. Look at the test lamp." ("the lover's return" in Southern Song Dynasty: Hong Tu), "moth fontanesia gold wisp, laughter floats to." ("Qing Yu An" Southern Song Dynasty: Xin Qiji). The Southern Song Dynasty aristocratic women are actually fighting each other with beautiful climbing Yan, "good woman, all in the palace room house our lady Mrs. hall, built Gengshen will,...... All with pearls and jade jewelry treasures to attend the meeting, Hu Yue Dou treasure people." (dream, Liang Ji, Southern Song Dynasty: Wu Zimu) The woman chasing fashion, the pursuit of novel and unusual, often changing costumes, "Woman Costume, namely a number, situation Shushibai years ago, samples of different self. Such as high Guanchang comb, and still see, a large comb wrapped, no non Sheng li. If this is done today, it does not necessarily boast of novelty." ("Shiba magazine" the Southern Song Dynasty: Zhou Hui) in the Southern Song Dynasty more than the beauty of the woman is a man wearing outlandish costume, "Chun years, dressed more easily, one such old age young not old, wrapped in towel odd foreign clothes, 35 for the group, Doumeikuali, very boring, non involution at to be honest." ("dream Liang Lu" in Southern Song Dynasty: Wu Zimu), "the men's clothing with jade rhinoceros, woman is finishing gold beads, illegal waste, not the past." (the "history of the Song Dynasty five Yuan Zhi": Tuotuo, etc.) "Jin Cui as a woman dress, not only have the luxury goods pest, and xi." , "Shishu home competition to fetal buckskin woman crown, mountain deer. Fetal harvesting. When to go and not far away, the woman in the dress and kingfisher, Fuyao also nearly." (the "history of the Song Dynasty five Yuan Zhi": Tuotuo etc.) in Southern Song dynasty women's smug stink away routine, what dare to wear what dare to use. The woman is too outrageous, Shishu family woman wearing fur wear what what love actually hurt the beauty of feathers, beasts and birds, destruction of the ecological environment. "Women, children, costumes, Chinese dazzle, traffic clouds."." (martial arts news: Southern Song Dynasty: careful): "this is the Southern Song Dynasty woman gorgeous gorgeous beautiful true portraiture.". Only a handful of the Tang Dynasty palace or the noble woman was gorgeous, and the majority of taxi lane, Shu, the poor woman dress, gorgeous and completely independent of their. The way of smelling women. In order to chastity, Shun, quiet, dedicated ceremony. The right car service Yao jewelry. A family of Huan downtown to diet view tour. Nor should women." ("Hejian biography" Tang: Liu Zongyuan), "any ceremony shame, any makeup, married German, not married capacity."." ("quiet woman" Yin Tang: Meng Jiao), "female charm is harm deep, month long day long people drowned." ("the fox" Zhong Tang: Bai Juyi), "life not embroidered clothes, the hope is somehow idle." ("foreign" Tang: Li Shanfu) The queen of the most expensive clothes, rarely wearing, taking only by the emperor or sacrificial ceremony. It is made of deep clean color and colorful Zhai pattern. With collar, sleeve, the margin of all red Yunlong patterns. Wear this kind of clothing to wear green yarn wearing Fengguan, single, waist deep green knee shelter. The other white jade and jade ribbon hanging double wear ring ornaments, wearing green socks green shoes. The original song big sleeve sleeveless shirts, dresses, brocade Tang suit type five generation legacy, still popular in the Northern Song Dynasty, mostly dressed noble women, is a kind of dress. Ordinary women should not wear large sleeves and can only be replaced by their backs. The big sleeve dress, reflected in the murals of Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang, Yongle Palace murals paintings in the Sanqing hall. In recent years, this kind of dress has also been unearthed in the Southern Song Dynasty Tombs in Fuzhou area. Wear this kind of clothing must be equipped with ornate jewelry, including the hair, earrings, brooches and silver finish, etc.. The Song Dynasty clothing was more popular among women in the song dynasty. The system with buttons for skirt part open, no buttons, or even the rope, revealing clothes. Yichang most knee, and some neat skirt. The Song dynasty women's skirt style in the Tang Dynasty and the Song Dynasty Ru skirt of the same skirt. Only the skirt is different, can also be available Youren, rather, may be affected by the Khitan, Jurchen and other ethnic minorities influence. The body of the decoration is not complicated, in addition to outside brocade, A jade ring ornament ribbon on the site wearing only at the waist, its role is mainly to suppress the hem, the walk or activity to windblown and affect the appearance, history books called "Yuhuan Shou", is this kind of decoration. The Song Dynasty inherited Tang installed left dress shirt, jacket, coat is still, the child back, dress, robe, gown, deep clothing, is the title. The clothing of the Song Dynasty, its clothing color, clothing style, many inherited the Tang Dynasty, but with the traditional melting together to do better and more natural, giving the impression that the restoration of Chinese style Song Dynasty costumes, the Song Dynasty men's clothing in general, followed by the Tang Dynasty style, the general people wear more wear collar or round neck gown, when doing things, put clothes on the belt, the clothes are black and white two colors. At that time, the retired officials, many wearing literati called "direct Duo" double breasted shirt, much of the sleeves, cuffs, neckline, shirt are inlaid with black edges, head and wearing a square barrel shaped hat, called "Dongpo towel". The Song dynasty women wore narrow sleeve short jacket, wearing a dress, usually wearing a long sleeved tunic in double breasted small Bei son, much like the vest, collar and front Bei, beautiful embroidered lace. Song Dynasty dress classification The Song Dynasty clothing is divided into three kinds: one is self queen, imperial concubine to levels of Mingfu "public service", and one used for the civilian population; a service called "dress" for daily use of uniforms. The Song Dynasty is the most followed robes. In the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty costumes because there is no custom, but also by outside influences, so there had been a "carpet Li" and "hook (London + soil)" ([+ Kwame] clothes beside socks) of the Khitan service, known as outlandish costume. The Song Dynasty is very popular luxury clothing to officials, people are very particular about the dress. The song three years (Qiande years) require the services of women palace with the doctor to change color, also provides for ordinary people not using colored Huayi fine silk damask. To Ren, the Pope, Kamine Naokotoko Zheng and seven years period, promoting improved official clothing, and more luxury. These Provisions for civil common people turned a deaf ear to take any beautiful fine silk damask. Some of the capital's aristocratic boudoir, but also create new styles dress designed many kinds of methods, the pursuit of a new and unique. Not only are the materials chosen exquisite, but the dressing is also very special, and some of them are big enough to be combed Square forehead, some tie hair Chuijian, some clever foretop brace light cloud Jinfeng, the poor also useful Decoupage hair, wearing incense, foot shoe embroidery. (1): the ordinary women's clothing: Ru skirt coat coat, jacket, sweater mostly, Bei, half arm, skirt, pants down to. Jacket and jacket is similar to the form of clothing, pants with relatively short skirt. The color is often purple and purple, and yellow is second. Your brocade, brocade or embroidery. General women shall use white, brown hair and pale brown satin silk to make clothes horse. Ru skirt style and handed down the works of "Han Xizai evening banquet" depicts roughly the same. Not only my rules, Youren can also be available, rather, may be affected by the Khitan, Jurchen and other ethnic minorities influence. In the middle of the skirt ribbon often hung a jade ring ornament -- "Yuhuan Shou", used to hold the hem, making the skirt in human motion without flapping and elegant solemn instrument. Ru is right half arm of the Song Dynasty, there are six pieces, eight pieces of dress, twelve pieces in the form of a common feature is that many pleats. Song Gongzhong's skirt folds more close, known as the Millennium zhequn. The skirt ornamentation is rich and colorful, have painted the affair of Valeriana, a pin gold embroidery, embroidered pearls...... Dress color to yellow tulip roots stained most noble; also has a red skirt, kabuki wear; and colorful feet the most prestigious. Older women and rural women wear dark colored skirts. The main skirting leno, embroidered or painted patterns decorated with beads, had appeared before and after the slits of the "spin dress" and phase mask with the beam "catch the skirt" (Song Lizong, the palace before and after non closure of the fashionable skirt mopping the floor, Name catching skirt). (2) the original song dynasty aristocratic women dress, sleeveless shirts, dress with silk Tang suit type five generation legacy, still popular in the Northern Song Dynasty, mostly dressed noble women, is a kind of dress. Although the Song Dynasty, even the palace clothing is also dominated by narrow sleeves, but clothes with large sleeves is still regarded as the symbol of luxury. "History of the Song Dynasty, Yu Fu Chi": "the uniforms, empress big sleeve." Zhu Xi "family man": "big sleeve, women blouse and wide, long sleeve to the knee, one foot two inches." Note: "other concubines in Bei son generation sleeve." (Bei son I will introduce in this article) wear this kind of clothing must be equipped with ornate jewelry, including the hair, earrings, brooches and silver finish, etc.. (3) ordinary women clothes: Bei The most common is the "Bei Song Dynasty clothing". Bei style, with straight collar breasted, two divorced Lapel suture, also not loop button, wide and narrow sleeves; the length of clothes, some in the knee, knee, leg, and some to have some ankle length; clothes or skirt hem from both sides of the slits to the waist, or have been to there are simply not slits armpit, style. At the same time, Bei son loved everyone regardless of respectable and humble, it is a very strange thing. The Song Dynasty woman wearing a royal concubine, Bei of the princess, also have the court peeresses of ordinary people; there is also a woman, square, street Kabuki, back is women's clothing. Entitled "Yao - month map" paintings, wearing women's show Bei of the quiet and elegant, Henan County Baisha Yu Song tomb unearthed frescoes on the female performers wearing Bei son, Shanxi Jinci clay also wear Bei of the maid. (the man wearing Bei son, not in this to say) are widely in Bei of, are closely related to the culture of song dynasty. From the other point of view, the profile of this clothing is straight, the body is wrapped into a cylinder, no curve, and bare collar, wide skirt, veil cover sleeve shirt costumes have distinct differences. In comparison, Chinese clothing and more publicity, the clothing is subtle and restrained, there is a tendency of asceticism. An important thought this kind of psychological orientation and the Song Dynasty emphasized the strict order between ruler and subject, father and son, husband and wife of the absolute hierarchy and subordination of. ???????????????????????? A straight collar image of women in the Song Dynasty with narrow sleeves Bei????? ("the ladies wear Bei Yao - month")??????????????? In Bei of miscellaneous opera actress (song "opera figure")??????????????? Taiyuan City, the Northern Song Dynasty temple sculptures of Jinci virgin maid statue (left two wear brocade Ru skirt, wearing the right is Bei)?????????????????? Taiyuan City, the Northern Song Dynasty temple sculpture Jinci virgin maid statues, comb bun, wearing dresses, Bei??? Home dress image of women in the Song Dynasty (from "ancient costume research" edited by Shen Congwen China) (4) the Queen: Yi dress clothes in Song Dynasty, the queen, North Korea and other major canonized ceremonial occasions in Yi yi. Yi Yi is a one-piece garment under a coat as a whole, a symbol of women's emotional specificity. It is made of deep clean color and colorful Zhai pattern. With collar, sleeve, the margin of all red Yunlong patterns. Wear this kind of clothing to wear green yarn wearing Fengguan, single, waist deep green knee shelter. The other white jade and jade ribbon hanging double wear ring ornaments, wearing green socks green shoes. The matching is beautiful on the Kowloon four Fengguan, the size of each branch and 12 branches, each with two lobed ornaments in the crown, called Bo temple or temple mask. ?????????????? Wearing a crown, wearing clothing pearls and Jade Dragon Queen (Yi Dian old Tibet "emperors such as")????????????????????? (plan)????? The matching is beautiful on the Kowloon four Fengguan, the size of each branch and 12 branches, each with two lobed ornaments in the crown, called Bo temple or temple mask. What????????? In a word, the Song Dynasty was influenced by the neo-Confucianism, It shows a unique artistic phenomenon and is an important part of the development of clothing in China. It provides a great deal of material for us to study the laws of ancient dress. Reference: the history of Chinese clothing, author: Chen Juanjuan The history of Chinese and foreign clothing: Zheng Jun, Zhang Zhaoyang