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Yingxian Wooden Pagoda
大家看我这个右侧 Now look at the right side of me
我的右侧摆着这个 On my right side stands a stuff
像是乾隆的帽子的这个建筑物 a model building which looks like Emperor Qianlong’s crown
就是刚才片子里的应县木塔 It is Yingxian Wooden Pagoda as we just saw in the film
(都说应县木塔倾斜了一直在想拯救 They all say the Wooden Pagoda leaned, calling to save it
我看片子和我自己拍摄的照片 but seeing the film and the pictures I took
还有这个这只道具都没看出它偏 as well as this stage property I never found it lean
这是真的吗 What they say is true?
真的是偏了 Yes
他是从第二层开始 It starts to lean on the second floor
二层三层一共偏了42.5到50.7厘米 On the second and third floor altogether it leans by 42.5 to 50.7 cm
我有没有理解错 Am I right to say
就是我在下面拍摄的时候 that when I take pictures from below
没发现他有任何偏 I can’t find it lean
肉眼看不出来那就是塔体没有偏 The naked eye fails to notice it leans
但是我爬到二层三层的时候 but when I ascend to second and third floors
看到西北侧那个地方 I will realize it by looking at its northwest side
本来应该这样的建筑已经偏成了这样那怎么办呢 The building has leaned so much but what can be done?
从二层开始现在只能是维修吧 The only thing to do is to have it repaired, starting from the second floor)
应县木塔据说占了好几个 It is said that Yingxian Wooden Pagoda boasts
中国建筑史上的第一 several “mosts” in China’s architectural history
您能给我们介绍一下Can you give us an introduction, please?
可以 Yes.
首先第一个第一 Firstly
第一个第一 The first “most” is
就是最古最古老 that it is the oldest
时间最久远 with the longest history
从塔龄来说 As to its age
它是建成于辽清宁二年 it was built in the second year of Qingning Period in Liao Dynasty
就是1056年 namely, in the year 1056
到现在是952年 952 years old up to now
(我想问清楚了 I’d like to make sure
是所有中国的塔它是最老的 it is the oldest of all Chinese pagodas
还是所有的中国木塔它是最老的木塔 or among all Chinese wooden pagodas )
这是第一个第一 This is the first “most”
第二个第一就是最高 The second “most” is that it is the highest
最高它是67.31米 it is 67.31 meters high
相当于20层楼房高 which equals to the height of a 20-storey building
也是活下来的木塔最高 It is the highest wooden pagoda existent
不光是我们中国 not only in China
那在世界上也是最高的木结构建筑 but also in the world
(最古老的最高的木建筑 The oldest and the highest
还有别的第一吗 Any other “most” ?
再一个就是 The next “most” )
还有别的第一就是一个斗拱still another “most”lies in its arches
斗拱最多it has the greatest number of arches
一共是有54种斗拱 with 54 kinds
种类是世界上最多的 it has the greatest variety in the world
(所以他可以说是斗拱的集大成 Therefore it can be said to have all kinds of arches synthesized
或者说是叫博物馆 or it is a museum of different arches
就是说应县木塔已经成为中国北方 Yingxian Wooden Pagoda, standing in north China
成为山西省的标志性建筑之一 has been a symbolic building of Shanxi
我们在省会太原 In Taiyuan, the capital of the province
滨河西路上的山西博物院 on Binhe West Road sits Shanxi Museum
其内部的构造设计 whose design of internal structure
就源于应县木塔的外形轮廓 derived from the profile of this Wooden Pagoda
它从二层三层四层 On the second, third and fourth floor
栏杆都是垒叠似的设计 its railings seemed to be piled up
一直到顶端也是应县木塔外形轮廓的it looks like the outline of the pagoda all the way to the top
他叫转接式自然采光 which is now called revolving natural illumination
非常科学 which very scientific
这个就把佛宫寺释迦木塔的传统艺术 The pagoda combined the traditional style of building Buddhist wooden pagodas
和我们现在建造艺术相融在一起 with modern architectural art
展示出山西千百万年来的文明 revealing thousands of years of Civilization in Shanxi
把山西千百万年的文明展示于世人之间 Exposing to the world Shanxi’s age-old civilization
这样便成山西省的一个标志性建筑 The pagoda is now recognized as a symbolic building of Shanxi Province.
应县木塔它呢外观是五层六眼 Seen from outside this wooden pagoda has five stories, six look-out holes
实际上它是九层 明五暗四 but actually it has nine stories, with five visible, four hidden.
加上四个暗层 with four hidden stories included)
我听说 I have heard
胡先生对应县木塔的研究 that Mr. Hu studied Yingxian Wooden Pagoda
还有另外一个说法 and came up with still another view
说它还有军事用途 saying it ever had military function
这不是我研究 This is not my research finding
这是明摆着事实 but the bare truth
(首先我们考虑他为什么修这么高 Firstly let’s consider why it was built so high
因为一般来说铃珑宝塔 Generally speaking exquisite pagodas
佛经里面都会形容他很高的 are always described as being very high
它和玉帝离的很近 so as to be closer to Jade Emperor
那玉帝是道教这弄混了 Well, Jade Emperor is in Taoism. I’m confused.
佛祖在彼岸 Buddhist Patriarch is on the other side of the bank
道教在天上 And Taoists have their master in the heaven)
他修这么高 Why it was built so high
涉及到应县这边一个很有意思的历史 concerned something interesting in the history of County Yingxian
(那么这里面你看从鲜卑从东陵胡 here you see from Xianbei to Donglinghu
很多民族在这里面融合过 many nationalities merged here
那么最重要的一个时期就是我们说是 and the most important period)
宋辽这个时间 In Song and Liao Dynasty
你这边恰好就是辽金分界线 and this piace was exactly the boundary line between State Liao and State Jin
(因为我在五台山我看过有一个庙里面 I ever saw in a temple of Wutai Mountain
还有宋军的北宋军队刻的金幢 some golden pillar with scripture carved by army of Song Dynasty
就在南边的忻州 Here is Xinzhou to the south
那么他这个 and this
就和白沟和中原的白沟 is Baigou, Baigou of the Central Plains
就是河北的白沟 just Baigou of Hebei
白沟是非常有名的 Baigou used to be well-known
当年从北京要出国溜达 At that time people from Beijing went abroad by here
一溜达就出国了 They crossed borders very easily.
现在是皮箱集散地 Now this place is a distribution centre of leather suitcases
对 他这个当时就边贸太发达 Yes. Even in that time border trade was flourishing
所以闹的当地的老百姓做生意的传统啊 and as a result people there like doing business as a tradition
始终是有 well-kept
所以这里面 So here)
当然两边已经是休战和平了 Certainly the two sides enjoyed peace after reaching truce
但是免不了因为在军事要塞区 but understandably in the areas around military fortresses
免不了需要有一个地方观察对方动机 a post was needed to observe the situation of the rival states
(河北正定有一个隆兴寺 In Zhengding of Hebei lies Longxin Temple
隆兴寺后面也有一个很高的塔 behind which stands a high pagoda, too
干的不是别的 serving no other than
是北宋的时候看辽的 for North Song to observe the opponent state Liao
这边是辽 Here is state Liao
也看宋兵 who did the same)
那时候没有飞机 There were no aircrafts then
要有飞机也不用盖这个了 Otherwise they wouldn’t have resorted to high pagodas
所以它也有瞭敌作用 so it was used for observing enemies
咱们今天来说就是军民两用 To use a modern term, the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda served both military and civil purposes
民就用于佛教 the civil purpose of Buddhism
军呢它是兼有观测作用 and military purpose of observation
所以它就必须要修这么高 So it had to be built so high
当然关于这个我还有一点疑问 I have another puzzle concerning the pagoda
(因为我们知道它地震不倒 We know why it was able to survive earthquakes
这个是木结构的一个优长 as is the merit of wooden structures
雷击火烧虫蛀 But lightning, fire and worms
这三个呢是木结构最忌讳的地方 these three are natural enemies of wooden structures
他如何能逃过这三种劫难 How was it able to survive these disasters,
雷电的火的另外还有虫蛀 especially lightning fire and worm eating?)
就是说这个木塔为什么千年不倒 That is to say, why was the pagoda able to stand for nearly a thousand years
至今还这么屹立 and is still standing erect?
我再补充一点 Here I have some other facts to add
一个就是双层框架的套筒结构 one is its tub-in-tub two-layer design
再一方面就是他斗拱和铆榫结构 another is its arches as well as mortise- and-tenon structure
这个也起很大作用 which played important roles
它那个铆榫In the the mortise- and-tenon structure
所有的铆榫结构它不用一根铁钉 not a single nail was used between mortise and tenon
都是互相咬着 who just bite into each other
(这还是一个特点一颗铁钉都没有 This is another feature of it, with no nail inside
那么大的木塔没有一个铁钉 Such a magnificent wooden pagoda has not a single nail in it
它都是咬铆榫咬着 with just mortises and tenons biting into each other)
再一个方面就是说塔基 Another thing concerns its foundation
塔叉上研究 and its turrets
那个塔叉中间是一根铁轴 In the middle of the turrets is an iron axle
转圈有八根铁锁 and around it there are eight iron chains
这个就是起两方面作用 This design served two functions
一个把那个这个铁轴插进地里 The iron axle penetrating under earth
既可以避雷又可以对四层五层起一个拉力作用 protected the pagoda from lightning attack and also gave pulling forces evenly to the fourth and fifth stories.
所以多少次没有受过雷击 and so it never suffered from lightning strike
那么我们作为非山西人了解应县 People outside Shanxi come to County Yingxian
是因为有这么一个木塔慕名而来 mainly because of this well-known pagoda
注:括号内是我截去的部分