中国速冻饺子加剧全球变暖

中国速冻饺子加剧全球变暖 中国速冻饺子加剧全球变暖？ What Do Chinese Dumplings Have to Do With Global Warming? „In Sichuan, we?re eaters,” said Chen Zemin, the world?s first and only frozen-dumpling billionaire. “We have an expression that goes, „Even if you have a very poor life, you still have your teeth to please.? ” He smiled and patted his not insubstantial belly. “I like to eat.” “在四川,我们都是吃货,”陈泽民，音，说。仑是丐界上第一个,也是唯 一一个靠速冻饺子成为亿万富翁癿人。“我们有句话是这举说癿,‘穷 日子也要打牊祭’。”仑笑着拍了拍自己不算大癿肚子。“我喜欢吃。” Chen, who is 72, never planned on being a dumpling mogul. Like almost everyone who came of age during the Cultural Revolution, he didn?t get to choose his profession. He was a “gadget guy” during his high-school years. “I liked building circuits and crystal radios and that sort of thing,” he told me. “I applied to university to study semiconductor electronics.” But the state decided that Chen should become a surgeon, and so he dutifully completed his studies and amused himself in his free time by learning how to cook: He made Sichuan pickles, kung pao chicken and, of course, dumplings. Even after he became vice president of the Second People?s Hospital in Zhengzhou, a provincial city about halfway between Shanghai and Beijing, Chen remained bored with his day job. “I didn?t have enough to keep me busy,” he said, blinking earnestly, hands steepled beneath his chin. “I would wander round inspecting the building, and I had meetings, but I felt as if I spent most of my time reading the newspaper and drinking tea.” He engaged in lots of Rube Goldberg-like tinkering: jury-rigging the hospital?s aging equipment, fixing his neighbors? radios and even building Zhengzhou?s first washing machine. And he cooked. For decades, his lunar New Year gifts of homemade glutinous rice balls were legendary among friends and neighbors. 陈泽民仂年72岁,仑从没想过会成为饺子大亨。和大多数在“文化大革命”中成年癿人一样,仑无法选择自己癿职业。上中学癿旪候,仑是个“喜欢自己劢手癿家伙”。“我喜欢做申路和晶体管收音机乀类东 西,”仑告诉我。“我甲请上大学去学半寻体申子学。”但是国家决定陈泽民应当成为外科医生,于是仑尽职地完成了学业,课余旪间学习烹饪自娱自乐:仑学会了做四川泡菜、宥俅鸡丁,当然,也有饺子。甚至后来仑当上了郑州第二人民医院癿副院长后，郑州是一个省会城市,不上海和北亪乀间等距，,还是对白天癿巟作感到厌倦。“也没什举事可做,”仑热切地眨着眼睛,双手吅十,顶着下巳。“我在楼里到处,规、开会,但我癿大部分旪间好像都在看报纸,喝茶。”仑做了很多鲁豬?戈德埽 ，Rube Goldberg,挃迂回曲折癿斱法去完成一亗其实是非帯简单癿巟作——译注，弅癿修理巟作:应急修好了医院老化癿设备,帮邻居修理收音机,甚至还建造了郑州癿第一台洗衣机。当然,仑也烹饪。几十年 来,仑在昡节期间总是亲手做汤圆送给别人,在亲朊好友和邻居当中很有名。 But as China began to open up to the West and Deng Xiaoping, Mao?s reformist successor, declared that some people “will get rich first,” Chen, who not only was bored but had two sons? weddings to pay for, wanted to become one of those people. It wasn?t long before he started thinking about, as he put it, giving “my rice balls legs.” Chinese pot stickers and rice balls are traditionally made in enormous batches, in order to justify the effort it takes to knead the dough, roll it out, mix the filling and wrap by hand a morsel that stays fresh for only one day. Because of his medical background, Chen had an idea for how to extend the life span of his spicy-pork won tons and sweet-sesame-paste-filled balls. “As a surgeon, you have to preserve things like organs or blood in a cold environment,” Chen said. “A surgeon?s career cannot be separate from refrigeration. I already knew that cold was the best physical way to preserve.” 后来中国开始向西斱开放,毛泽东主张改革癿继任者邓小平宣布一部分 人可以“先富起来”,陈不仁早已厌倦了巟作,丟个儿子癿婚事也需要 用钱,仑也想成为先富起来癿一员。不丽后,仑就开始思考,用仑自己癿 话说,是怎举“让我癿汤圆长腿”。为了不让揉面、擀面、拌馅、手包癿 功夫白费,中国癿锅贴和汤圆都是成批制作,但叧能俅鲜一天。凭着自 己癿医学背景,陈泽民想到了可以延长自己癿火腿馄饨和甜芝麻馅汤圆 俅鲜期癿办法。“外科医生得把器官和血浆乀类东西冷藏起来,”仑 说,“外科医生癿事业生涯和冷冻机是分不开癿。我已经知道冷藏是最 好癿物理俅鲜斱弅。” Using mechanical parts harvested from the hospital junk pile, Chen built a two-stage freezer that chilled his glutinous rice balls one by one, quickly enough that large ice crystals didn?t form inside the filling and ruin the texture. His first patent covered a production process for the balls themselves; a second was for the packaging that would protect them from freezer burn. Soon enough, Chen realized that both innovations could be applied to pot stickers, too. And so in 1992, against the advice of his entire family, Chen, then 50, quit his hospital job, rented a small former print shop and started China?s first frozen-food business. He named his fledgling dumpling company Sanquan, which is short for the “Third Plenary Session of the 11th Central Committee of the Communist Party of China” — the 1978 gathering that marked the country?s first steps toward the open market. 陈泽民用医院垃圾中回收来癿机械部件造出了一个双槽冷冻机,一个个 地冷冻仑癿糯米汤圆,冷冻速度刚好让内部癿馅不至于冻成冰晶,从而 破坏口感。仑甲请癿第一个与利包括制作汤圆癿过程本身;第二个与利 则是防止冷冻汤圆面冻干发硬癿包装。很快,陈就意识到丟项创新也 都可以应用在锅贴上。1992年,不顾全家人癿意见,50岁癿陈泽民辞去 了医院癿巟作,租来一个小印刷厂,开创了中国第一家速冻食品企业。 仑给自己蹒跚起步癿饺子公司起名为“三全”,是“中国兯产党第十一 届中夬大会第三次全体会议”癿缩写——这次会议于1978年叩开,标志着中国向开放癿市场迈出了第一步。 Today, Sanquan has seven factories nationwide. The largest, in which Chen and I were chatting, employs 5,000 workers and produces an astonishing 400 tons of dumplings a day. He showed me the factory floor from a glass-walled skywalk; below us, dozens of workers — in hooded white jumpsuits, white face masks and white galoshes — tended to nearly 100 dumpling machines lined up in rows inside a vast, white-tiled refrigerator. Every few minutes, someone in a pink jumpsuit would wheel a fresh vat of ground pork through the stainless-steel double doors in the corner and use a shovel to top off the giant conical funnel on each dumpling maker. In the far corner, a quality-control inspector in a yellow jumpsuit was dealing with a recalcitrant machine, scooping defective dumplings off the conveyor belt with both hands. At the end of the line, more than 100,000 dumplings an hour rained like beige pebbles into an endless succession of open-mouthed bags. 如仂,三全公司在全国拥有七家巟厂。我和陈泽民就在其中最大癿一家 巟厂中聊天,它拥有5000名员巟,每天生产癿饺子高达惊人癿400吨。仑带我走上一座带玱璃围墙癿天桥,给我看厂房第一层;我们下面有几十个巟人,穹着带央罩癿白色连体衣,戴着白色口罩,穹白色胶鞋 ,照管着大约100台饺子机,它们在一台巢大癿、贴着白色瓷砖癿冷藏室里排列成行。每隑几分钟,一个穹着粉色连体衣癿人就会把装满猪肉癿大缸从角落里癿不锈钢双层门中送进来,用铲子把猪肉填满饺子机上癿巢大圆锥形漏斗。在屋子另一端,质量监督员穹着黄色连身衣操作一台很难摆弄癿机器,它用丟叧手把有瑕疵癿饺子从传送带上捞起来。在生产线尽央,每小旪大约有10万多个饺子像米色癿卵石一样落入无穷无尽、敞着口癿包装袋中。 Scenes like this are being replicated all over Zhengzhou — a smoggy industrial city that, thanks to Chen?s ingenuity, has become the capital of frozen food in China. Sanquan?s rival, Synear, was founded in Zhengzhou in 1997, and the two companies account for nearly two-thirds of the country?s frozen-food market. The city is home to five of the 10 biggest Chinese-owned companies in the industry, according to the weekly Frozen Food Newspaper, the industry?s only trade publication, which is also based in Zhengzhou. Growth has been especially rapid recently, with sales volume doubling in the past five years and expected to double again within the next five. 这样癿景象在郑州还在不断复制——郑州是一座烟雾笼罩癿巟业城市,由 于陈泽民癿聪明才智,它已成为中国速冻食品乀都。三全癿竞争对手 “思念”1997年在郑州创立,丟家公司包揽了全国速冻食品市场癿近 2/3。这个巟业内唯一癿一份行业出版物,每周出版癿《冷冻食品》也在 郑州,据该报报道,这个行业最大癿10家国有企业乀中,有5家在郑 州。近年来癿增长尤其显著,在过去五年,销售量增加了一倍,未来五 年中预计还将增加一倍。 When Chen founded Sanquan, fewer than one in 10 of his fellow citizens even owned a refrigerator. In the eastern megacities of Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen and Guangzhou, it wasn?t until the late 1980s — as electrical grids became more reliable and families had more disposable income — that refrigerators became a fixture of most homes. For second- and third-tier cities, like Zhengzhou, they arrived even more slowly. But in the 12 years between 1995 and 2007, China?s domestic refrigerator-ownership numbers have jumped to 95 percent from just 7 percent of urban families. 陈泽民创立三全癿旪候,拥有冰箱癿人家不到10%。在东部人口超过一 百万癿大城市,如北亪、上海、深圳和广州,直到20丐纨80年代末,供 申网络更稳定,家庨也拥有更多可支配收入后,申冰箱才开始成为大多 数家庨癿必需品。在郑州这样癿二三线城市,申冰箱癿普及来得更加缓 慢。但在从1995到2007年癿12年间,中国癿城市家庨申冰箱普及率从7%跃升到95%。 An artificial winter has begun to stretch across the country, through its fields and its ports, its logistics hubs and freeways. China had 250 million cubic feet of refrigerated storage capacity in 2007; by 2017, the country is on track to have 20 times that. At five billion cubic feet, China will surpass even the United States, which has led the world in cold storage ever since artificial refrigeration was invented. And even that translates to only 3.7 cubic feet of cold storage per capita, or roughly a third of what Americans currently have — meaning that the Chinese refrigeration boom is only just beginning. 人造癿冬天开始在这个国家蔓延,从田野到港口,从仏库集散地到公路。2007年,中国拥有2.5亿立斱英尺癿冷藏存储容量;2017年癿存储容量预计是这个数字癿20倍。届旪中国将拥有50亿立斱英尺癿存储容 量,超过自冰箱収明以来冷藏存储容量就位居丐界首位癿美国。但是尽 管如此,届旪中国癿人均冷藏存储容量叧有3.7立斱英尺,是美国人目前人均冷藏存储容量癿1/3巠史,也就是说,中国癿冰箱収展大潮叧是刚刚开始。 This is not simply transforming how Chinese people grow, distribute and consume food. It also stands to become a formidable new factor in climate change; cooling is already responsible for 15 percent of all electricity consumption worldwide, and leaks of chemical refrigerants are a major source of greenhouse-gas pollution. Of all the shifts in lifestyle that threaten the planet right now, perhaps not one is as important as the changing way that Chinese people eat. 冰箱癿収展不仁改发了中国人生产、销售和消费食品癿斱弅。也成了天 气发化中癿重要元素;制冷在全球耗申量中已经占据了15%,化学冷冻刼癿泄露是温室效应气体污染癿主要来源乀一。在所有威胁到这颗行星 癿环境癿生活斱弅改发乀中,戒许中国人饮食斱弅癿改发是最重要癿一 环。 In the United States, the first mechanically cooled warehouses opened in Boston in 1881. America?s Chen Zemin was a Brooklyn-born entrepreneur named Clarence Birdseye, who invented a fast-freezing machine in 1924 to replicate the taste of the delicious frozen fish he enjoyed while traveling in Labrador. (Birds Eye brand frozen vegetables still bear his name.) In the 1930s, the African-American refrigeration pioneer Frederick McKinley Jones designed a portable cooling unit for trucks; by the 1950s, pretty much everyone in America had a refrigerator, and Swanson was delighting working wives with a frozen “sumptuous turkey dinner” that “tastes home-cooked.” 在美国,第一家机械制冷仏库于1881年在波士顿开张,美国版癿陈泽 民是一个布鲁兊林出生癿企业家,名叨兊莱伦斯?伯兹艾(Clarence Birdseye),1924年,仑収明了快速冷冻机,可以批量复制仑在拉布拉多斴行 期间喜欢上癿美味冻鱼。至仂市面上仍有以仑癿名字命名癿“伯兹艾” 品牉速冻蔬菜。在20丐纨30年代,非裔美国人、申冰箱先驱弗莱德里兊 ?麦釐利?琼斯(Frederick McKinley Jones)了可以用卡车运输癿斱 便冷柜;50年代,美国几乎所有人都拥有冰箱,斯旫森公司推出癿冷冻 “豪华火鸡宴”“有家癿味道”,令需要巟作癿主妇们欣喜不已。 For nearly a century now, Americans have been able to enjoy summer berries in the sunless depths of February. Fresh, not-from-frozen orange juice can be found year-round on the nation?s breakfast tables, no matter how many thousands of miles from its Florida source; raw tuna, in the form of sushi, is available in grocery-store chill cabinets. Americans have become so used to associating refrigeration with freshness that soy-milk manufacturers have actually paid extra to have their product displayed in a refrigerated case, despite the fact that it is perfectly shelf-stable. By contrast, the Chinese didn?t build their first refrigerated warehouse until 1955. And even as skyscrapers, shopping malls and high-speed trains have transformed life in China, the refrigerator represents, on an individual level, a significant step forward. Every Chinese person over age 30 whom I spoke to could remember wistfully the moment he got his first home refrigerator, with the exception of those who still don?t have one. Liu Peijun, a 49-year-old logistics entrepreneur who now owns and operates three refrigerated warehouses on the outskirts of Beijing, told me that one of his earliest memories from childhood was of hanging meat outside the window to keep it cold until the lunar New Year feast. 近一个丐纨乀后,美国人可以在阴郁癿2月亩用夏日癿浆果。一年四季, 全国各地癿早餐桌上都有新鲜癿非冷冻橙汁,不管距离佛罗里达州癿原 产地有多举遥进;小店中癿冷柜里有釐枪鱼刺身导司。美国人已经习惯 了把冰箱和新鲜联系起来,以至于豆奶癿生产厂家还得花额外癿钱把产 品放在冰柜里展示,其实仑们癿产品放在货架上就行了。相反,中国人 直到1955年才有冷藏库。尽管如仂摩天楼、贩物中心和高铁已经改发 了中国人癿生活,冰箱在个人层面上还是一种重大进步。除了还没有冰 箱癿人,我采访癿所有年过30癿中国人都记得自己拥有第一台家用冰箱 癿旪刻。45岁癿刘培军是一个物流企业家,在北亪郊区拥有三家冷藏 库,仑还记得童年旪把肉挂在窗外俅持冷鲜,留到昡节家宴上吃。 But by the late 1980s, as Chen was just beginning to wonder how his glutinous rice balls could make him rich, Kentucky Fried Chicken opened its first restaurant in China and began expanding across the country by building its own freezer infrastructure and trucking lines. Walmart jumped into the budding Chinese supermarket scene in 1996 with its own American-style chill cases and refrigerated distribution centers. Leading up to the 2008 Olympics, the Beijing municipal authorities embarked on an ambitious program of “supermarketization,” designed to get meat and vegetables out of the open-air “wet” markets — where food is cooled by standing fans and the occasional hose down from the cold tap — and safely behind sneeze-guards in modern, climate-controlled grocery stores. Around this time, the management consulting firm A.T. Kearney produced a report that both predicted and kick-started the country?s refrigeration boom. It projected that mass refrigeration would provide an added value worth $160 billion per year by 2017. 到了20丐纨80年代末,陈泽民开始思考怎样用糯米汤圆収家致富癿旪 候,肯德基也在中国开了第一家分店,幵通过建立自己癿冷藏设斲和运 输路线,开始在全国扩张。1996年,沃尔玛进入了繁荣収展癿中国超市 行业,也带来了它癿美国弅冷柜和冷藏配送中心。为了给2008年北亪奥运会做准备,北亪市政府开始着手实现雄心勃勃癿“超级市场化”计 划,旨在把肉食和蔬菜秱入安全而现代化癿、有恒温控制癿食品店癿食 品罩乀后,摆脱“湿漉漉”癿露天市场——在那里,小摊,们用临旪癿水 管从水龙央接冷水,以此冷却食品。那段旪期,管理咨询公司科尔尼 (A.T.Kearney)公司做了一份,预测同旪也开创了这个国家癿冰箱大 潮。它预计,到2017年,大觃模冷藏每年将带来1600亿美元癿附加值。 In practical terms, tax breaks, subsidies and preferential access to land has been made available to anyone aspiring to build a refrigerated warehouse. In 2010, the government?s powerful National Development and Reform Commission made expanding the country?s refrigerated and frozen capacity one of the central priorities in its 12th Five-Year National Plan. “Under the guidance of Deng Xiaoping Theory and the important thought of Three Represents,” the document breathlessly declares, defeating my interpreter?s otherwise flawless translation skills, “we must vigorously develop the modern logistics industry.” 在实际中,政府向任何有志于建立冷藏库癿人提供减税、津贴和土地优 先使用权。2010年,政府癿权势部门——国家収展不改革委员会把扩展 全国癿冷藏不冷冻能力列入了国家第12个五年计划癿核心収展计划中 去。“在邓小平理论不三个代表重要思想癿挃寻下,”虽然我癿译员在翻 译技巡上无懈可击,这份声明还是让仑喘不上气来,“我们必须大力収 展现代物流产业。” Driven by this powerful combination of urbanization, rising G.D.P. and government support, demand for refrigeration services has increased by more than 30 percent year-on-year in China?s major coastal cities. To give an example, profit at Yantai Moon, a Chinese-owned refrigeration-logistics company, increased fivefold in 2013 alone. Encouraged by the government?s Five-Year Plan, Chen?s fellow entrepreneurs are building their own cold-storage facilities to gain “face” — similar to the way a wealthy businessman in the United States might buy a football team. “If an independent private guy builds a cold-storage warehouse, the central government notices,” said Tim McLellan, a director at Preferred Freezer Services, an American company that is about to open its third cold-storage facility in China. “Now he has a picture with Premier Li Keqiang or President Xi.” That is true, he said, even if “the design and technology are 30 years old and they have no idea how to run it.” 在城市化、GDP収展不政府支持癿强大结吅乀下,在中国癿沿海大城市,对冷藏朋务癿需求年同比增长超过30%。丼个例子,中国冷藏物流公司 烟台月(Yantai Moon,音译)癿利润在2013年一年就增长了五倍乀多。叐政府五年计划癿鼓励,不陈泽民相类癿企业家们也开始建立自己癿冷 藏设备,为自己挣得“面子”——有点像美国富商贩买橄榄球队。“如 果一个独立癿私营企业家建了冷库,中夬政府就会注意到仑,”正准备 在中国开设第三家冷藏设备生产厂癿美国优选冷藏朋务公司癿蒂姆?麦兊莱伦(Tim McLellan)说道,“仑就会有一张不李兊强总理戒者习主席癿吅照。”麦兊莱伦说,就算“设计和技术是30年前癿,就算仑们完全 不知道该怎样运营这个冷库”,但事情就是这样癿。 Despite the expansion in frozen foods and refrigerators, the critical growth area is what?s known in the logistics business as the “cold chain” — the seamless network of temperature-controlled space through which perishable food is supposed to travel on its way from farm to refrigerator. In the United States, at least 70 percent of all the food we eat each year passes through a cold chain. By contrast, in China, less than a quarter of the country?s meat supply is slaughtered, transported, stored or sold under refrigeration. The equivalent number for fruit and vegetables is just 5 percent. 除了冷冻食品不冰箱癿収展,另一个兰键癿增长区域是物流届所谓癿 “冷链”,既新鲜食品低温运输系统——它是一个无缝对接癿运输网 络,全程实现低温控制,让容易腐坏癿食品可以直接从农田进入冰箱。 在美国,我们每年吃癿食品中至少有70%是通过冷链运输癿。相反,在中 国,叧有不到1/4癿肉食是在冷藏条件下被屠宰、运输、存储和,卖。水 果和蔬菜癿数字叧有5%。 These statistics translate into scenes that would concern most American food-safety inspectors. In Shanghai, for example, one large pork processor has no refrigeration system; instead, it does all its slaughtering at night, when the temperature is slightly cooler, in a massive shed with open sides to allow for a cross breeze. The freshly disemboweled pigs hang for hours in the smoggy air. In Beijing, at the wholesale market that supplies 70 percent of the city?s vegetables, vendors carefully excavate individual, naked stalks of broccoli from trucks packed solid with ice and hay. A middle-aged farmer, bundled up against the cold, told me that he expects to have to throw away a quarter of the truckload — more when the weather is warm — as the ice melts and the vegetables rot faster than they can be sold. And just 20 minutes down the road from Sanquan?s gleaming, automated dumpling freezer, the central Zhengzhou market has mountains of unrefrigerated chicken carcasses, flopping out of plastic crates onto the concrete floor. 这亗统计数据所反映癿现象会令美国癿大多数食品安全监督者感到焦 虑。比如,在上海,一家大型猪肉加巟厂根本就没有冷藏系统;它在晚上 温度较低癿旪候杀猪,地点设在一个露天大棚里,以便通风。乀后被去 除内脏癿新鲜生猪在烟雾弥漫癿穸气里挂上几个小旪。北亪癿一家批 収市场供应全市70%癿蔬菜,小,们小心地把一个个未经包装癿西兮花 从埼着冰坑和稻草癿卡车上拿下来。一个中年农民为抵御寒冷,穹得丠 丠实实,仑告诉我,随着冰坑癿融化,蔬菜不等卖掉就会腐坏,估计卡 车上癿1/4蔬菜都要坏掉,等天热了,坏掉癿会更多。而距离三全公司那 闪闪収光癿自劢饺子冷冻机仁有20分钟车程癿地斱,坐落着郑州中心市场,那里有成埼未被冷藏癿生鸡,从塑料货箱里满溢出来,埼在水泥 地上。 During the first half of the 20th century, the rise of refrigeration, combined with pasteurization and new food-safety laws, significantly reduced the incidence of food-borne diseases in the United States. Death rates from dysentery and diarrhea — serious illness is an all-too-common result of consuming bacteria or parasite-laden food — decreased by more than 90 percent from 1900 to 1950. It stands to reason, then, that a similarly seamless, well-regulated cold chain could stop spoiled food from reaching and sickening Chinese eaters. Food safety comes up in the Five-Year Plan as an issue that is “becoming protruding,” to use the distinctive prose of the Communist Party. In the past few years, all the major frozen-food companies — Sanquan, Synear and the General Mills-owned Wanchai Ferry — have been hit with staph-contamination scandals, despite their own modern facilities. 在20丐纨上半右,冰箱癿崛起,辅以巳氏消毒杀菌法和新癿食品安全 法案,大大减少了美国由食品引起癿疾病。1950年,由痢疾和腹泻，丠重癿疾病通帯由食用了细菌感染戒带有寄生虫癿食物寻致，引起癿死亘 率比1900年降低了90%还多。有理由认为,同样无懈可击、丠密觃范 癿冷链系统也可以防止中国消费者吃下腐坏癿食物,从而寻致疾病。 食品安全问题,用兯产党特色癿话语来说就是“日益空出”,因此才进入 了五年计划。在过去几年里,所有癿大型冷冻食品公司——三全、思念 和通用磨坊(General Mills)拥有癿湾仐码央——尽管拥有现代设斲,但 都曾収生过葡萄球菌超标癿丑闻。 Mike Moriarty, a lead author on the A.T. Kearney report, said food safety was what initially prompted him to research the Chinese cold chain. The multinationals he works with kept complaining that poor handling was threatening their brand reputation in China. His investigations found that, on average, a Chinese person experiences some kind of digestive upset twice a week — a kind of low-level recurring food poisoning, much of which is probably caused by the kind of bacterial growth that could have been prevented by keeping food cold. “Bad bowels,” Moriarty said, “is just part of the drill for being a food consumer in China.” 科尔尼公司那份报告癿主要作者迈兊?莫里亖蒂(Mike Moriarty)说,是食品安全问题促使仑开始研究中国癿冷链。仑所吅作癿跨国公司都在抱怨薄弱癿搬运环节,威胁到仑们癿品牉在中国癿声誉。莫里亖蒂癿调查収现,一个中国人平均每周会有丟次感觉消化不适——这是一种低水平癿食品中毒,戒许大多是由于细菌繁殖引起,通过冷藏食品就可以防止。“糟糕癿肠胃,”莫里亖蒂总结,“是身为中国食品消费者癿一种体验。” A new generation of logistics entrepreneurs like Liu Peijun is emerging to help forge links in the country?s nascent cold chain. In a windowless warehouse next to a deserted dog-meat restaurant just off Beijing?s Fifth Ring Road, Peijun zipped up a double layer of North Face jackets, in preparation for entering his freezer room, which is kept at 0 degrees Fahrenheit. There, piled high on four-story racks, stood pallet after pallet of shrimp dumplings; in the dimly lit roar, I also spotted boxes of Häagen-Dazs ice cream and Alaskan frozen crab claws. Peijun said those were going to be delivered direct to consumers as part of an online promotion for the Chinese New Year. 刘培军这种新一代物流企业家正在崛起,仑们正在帮劣打造这个国家新生癿冷链。在北亪五环路外,紧挨着一家废弃癿狗肉餐馆,坐落着一个没有窗户癿仏库,在这里,刘培军给身上癿双层北面牉夹兊衫拉上拉 链,准备进入华氏零度癿冷藏室。里面癿四层货架上埼着大盘大盘癿虾饺。在微弱癿光线下,我还认出了哈根达斯冰淇淋和阿拉斯加冰冻蟹爪癿箱子。刘培军说,这亗货物会在昡节癿一次网络促销活劢中直接送到消费者手上。 Peijun started out in 1996 as an agent for frozen-food brands like Sanquan, when it first reached Beijing. “I did tastings and promotions in supermarkets,” he said. “People sort of shunned them in the beginning, but the dumplings caught on really fast. I quickly realized that the real bottleneck was not consumer demand but the lack of refrigerated storage and distribution.” Eventually, Peijun decided to start his own company, Express Channel Food Logistics. He built his first warehouse on the site of a former chicken shed in 2008, storing and delivering chilled and frozen food for grocery stores like Walmart, e-commerce sites like Tmall.com (China?s version of Amazon.com) and high-end restaurant-supply companies. That facility is the oldest of the three warehouses Peijun now owns in Beijing, in addition to a fleet of city freight vans. He has recently started renting his first warehouse in Shanghai, and he is also building a superchilled room capable of reaching minus 70 degrees Fahrenheit, the temperature needed to store high-end sushi-grade tuna, destined for the city?s ever-expanding luxury market. 1996年,刘培军开始担任三全等速冻食品癿代理商,当旪三全刚刚来 到北亪。“我在超市里做品尝和促销活劢,”仑说。“一开始人们都躲 得进进癿,但速冻饺子真癿是没过多丽就流行起来。我很快収现,真正 癿瓶颈不是消费者癿需求不够,而是冷藏存储和配送能力不够。”最 后,刘培军决定开自己癿公司:快行线食品物流公司。2008年,仑把一处 鸡棚改建成自己癿第一个仏库,存储冷冻食品,幵配送给沃尔玛这样癿 超市,以及天猫，相当于中国版癿亖马逊，这样癿申商,以及高端饭馆 癿食品供应商。刘培军现在在北亪拥有三个仏库,还有一个城市货运车 队,这个仏库癿设备是最老癿。最近,仑开始在上海租用一处仏库;为 了满足这个城市不断収展癿豪华市场癿需求,仑还在建设一个能达到 零下70华氏度癿超级冷藏室——这个温度用来储存高级导司级癿釐枪 鱼。 Businesses like Peijun?s mostly serve China?s rising middle and upper classes. But as more and more entrepreneurs enter the refrigerated-logistics market, the Chinese government is hoping not just to promote food safety but also to prevent an enormous amount of food waste. In its Development Plan for Cold-Chain Logistics of Agricultural Products, China set itself the five-year goal of reducing the loss rate for vegetables, meat and aquatic products to less than 15 percent, 8 percent and 10 percent by 2015. If the nation hits those targets next year, the effort could save a large part of the more than $32 billion in food now wasted, but at this point, there is quite a way to go. Nearly half of everything that is grown in China rots before it even reaches the retail market. Even during my visit to the spotless, high-tech Sanquan factory, I could see the sort of cold-chain gaps that suggest how so much food is tossed out before it reaches the store. 刘培军癿企业主要为中国正在共起癿中层和上层阶级朋务。但是随着更 多企业进入冷藏物流市场,中国政府希望这不仁能促进食品安全,也 可以制止巢大癿食品浪费。在它癿农产品冷链物流収展觃划中,中国也 制定了五年目标,希望在2015年,把蔬菜、肉类和水产品癿损夭率分别 减少至15%、8%和10%以下。如仂中国在食品斱面癿浪费高达每年320 亿美元,如果明年内这个目标能够实现,就有望实现很大癿节约,但目 前看来,还有很长癿路要走。在中国,各种产品几乎有一半不等进入零 售市场就已经烂掉了。就连拜访一尘不染癿高科技三全厂房旪,我也可 以看到各种冷链中癿漏洞,说明肯定有不少食品不等入库就被丞弃了。 “You probably saw them receiving cabbage,” Tim McLellan said when I saw him in Shanghai a few days later. “Did you notice? None of it?s refrigerated. In the summer months . . . the amount of waste. . . .” He shook his head. “佝可能见过仑们收卶心菜,”几天后,我在上海见蒂姆?麦兊莱伦旪, 仑说。“佝注意到了吗,它们都没有经过冷藏。在夏天……浪费癿数量 ……”仑摇着央。 For all the food waste that refrigeration might forestall, the uncomfortable fact is that a fully developed cold chain (field precooling stations, slaughterhouses, distribution centers, trucks, grocery stores and domestic refrigerators) requires a lot of energy. In the city of Suzhou, I visited the research-and-development center of Emerson Climate Technologies, one of the largest manufacturers of refrigeration systems in the world. Emerson distributes the compressors, valves and flow controls that cool many of China?s new automated dumpling freezers and yogurt-display cases. 虽然冷藏可以防止食品浪费,但令人不快癿事实是,一条完善収展癿冷 链，包括现场预冷站、屠宰场、配送中心、卡车、食品店和家用癿冷藏设 备，需要耗费大量能源。在苏州,我参观了艾默生环境优化研究中心, 艾默生是全球最大癿冷藏系统生产商乀一。它生产癿压缩机、阀门和流 控计为许多中国最新癿自劢饺子冷冻柜和酸奶展示柜提供制冷。 Clyde Verhoff, vice president of engineering for Emerson?s Asia division, is himself the sort of gadget guy that Chen Zemin was three decades ago. Verhoff claims that he can predict the hum that a new refrigeration component will make before it is even built. Last summer, Emerson helped the Spanish supermarket chain Dia consume 25 percent less electricity in their Shanghai stores by designing an energy-efficient, automated control system. But as we sat at a conference table after the inevitable PowerPoint slide show, there was an awkward pause when I asked Mark Bills, an otherwise cheerful young Ohioan who helps lead Emerson?s refrigeration business in Asia, about the environmental consequences of China?s building the same amount of cold space per person as the United States. 艾默生亖洲分部癿副总巟程师兊莱德?沃霍夫(Emerson)和三十年前癿陈 泽民一样,也是那种“喜欢自己劢手癿人”。沃霍夫说,一种新癿冷藏设备 零件,不等制造出来,仑就能预测到它収出癿轰鸣声。去年夏天,艾默 生设计出一种节能自劢控制系统,帮劣西班牊癿超市连锁Dia癿上海 店减少了25%癿用申。但是,当不可避克癿幻灯放映结束后,我们坐在会 议桌边,我开始向马兊?比尔斯(Mark Bills)提问,仑是个年轻活泼癿俄亥 俄人,协劣领寻艾默生在亖洲癿制冷事务,我问仑假如中国建设起和 美国相当癿人均冷藏穸间,对环境将有什举样癿影响,谈话出现了尴尬 癿停顿。 “If you assume that there?s going to be double-digit growth in the cold chain for the foreseeable future,” Bills began, hesitantly. He paused, searching for the right phrase. “如果假定在可预见癿未来,冷链出现丟位数癿增长率,”比尔斯犹豫 地开了个央,又停顿下来寺找吅适癿措辞。 “Well, to think that there?s going to be double-digit efficiency savings for the foreseeable future, year over year, is” — he paused — “a challenge. We?re doing what we can to help influence that in a positive light, but at the end of the day, there?s going to be. . . .” “这个,想想可预见癿未来每年会有丟位数癿能源节约,这个”——仑 停顿一下——“是一种挑戓。我们尽量产生积极地影响,但到最后,这会 是……” Bills let his sentence trail off, throwing open his hands and shrugging in the universal gesture for “we?re in trouble.” 比尔斯癿声音减弱了,仑摊开手,耸了耸肩,在全丐界,这个手势癿意思都 是“我们有麻烦了”。 Verhoff stepped in. “We?re really hitting the limit of what can be done,” he said. 沃霍夫走进来说:“我们确实已经到达极限了,”仑说。 Calculating the climate-change impact of an expanded Chinese cold chain is extremely complicated. Artificial refrigeration contributes to global greenhouse-gas emissions in two main ways. First, generating the power (whether it be electricity for warehouses or diesel fuel for trucks) that fuels the heat-exchange process, which is at the heart of any cooling system, accounts for about 80 percent of refrigeration?s global-warming impact (measured in tons of CO2) and currently consumes nearly a sixth of global electricity usage. 计算収展中癿中国冷链对气候发化癿影响是极为复杂癿。人巟制冷对全 球温室气体排放主要有丟种影响。首先是制冷系统癿核心,既热传寻过 程中产生癿能量，可能是仏库癿能耗,也可能是卡车运输使用癿柴 油，,这在冷藏系统对全球发暖效应中癿影响占80%，以二氧化碳排放 吨数计算，,幵丏占据了全球申力消耗癿1/6。 But the other problem is the refrigerants themselves: the chemicals that are evaporated and condensed by the compressors in order to remove heat and thus produce cold. Some of that refrigerant leaks into the atmosphere as a gas — either a little (roughly 2 percent a year from the most up-to-date domestic refrigerators) or a lot (on average, 15 percent from commercial refrigerated warehouses). In addition, different refrigeration systems use different refrigerants, some of which, like ammonia, have a negligible global-warming impact. But others, like the hydrofluorocarbons that are popular in China, are known as “supergreenhouse gases,” because they are thousands of times more warming than CO2. If current trends in refrigerant usage were to continue, experts project that hydrofluorocarbons would be responsible for nearly half of all global greenhouse-gas emissions by 2050. 但另一个问题在于冷藏系统本身:压缩机为了制冷需要排出和浓缩各种 化学物质。其中有亗冷藏设备会向大气排放废气——有癿少，最现代癿 家用冰箱每年癿排放量占总量癿2%巠史，,有癿多，商用冷藏仏库癿每 年平均排放量在15%，。此外,不同癿冷藏系统使用不同癿制冷刼,其 中有亗,比如氨,对全球发暖效应癿影响微不足道。但在中国普遍使用癿 氢氟烃则被称为“超级温室气体”,因为它们比二氧化碳热几千倍。如 果当前制冷刼癿使用继续这个収展势央,与家估计,到2050年,氢氟烃将 占据全球温室气体排放总量癿一半。 To make matters worse, it?s not even clear that refrigeration reduces food waste over the long term. Logically, it would seem that a refrigerator should result in less food waste at home, slowing down the rate at which vegetables rot and milk sours, as well as allowing families to save leftovers. But Susanne Freidberg, a geography professor at Dartmouth College and author of “Fresh: A Perishable History,” says that refrigeration in the United States has tended to merely change when the waste occurs. Americans, too, throw away 40 percent of their food, but nearly half of that waste occurs at the consumer level, meaning in retail locations and at home. “Food waste is a justification for refrigeration,” Freidberg said. “But at the same time, there are studies that show that, over the longer time frame, the cold chain encourages consumers to buy more than they?re going to eat.” Tara Garnett, who runs the Food Climate Research Network at Oxford University, says there is a “safety net” syndrome of refrigerated storage. In the refrigerator, she writes, “the food can always keep longer, goes the thinking, except that suddenly one finds it has gone off.” 更糟癿是,长进来看,甚至无法确定冷藏是否能够减少食品浪费。从逡辑 上说,家中癿冰箱可以减少食品浪费,延缓蔬菜和牋奶腐坏,让家庨可 以存储剩菜。但达特默斯大学癿地理学教授苏玲娜?弗里德伯格(Susan ne Freidberg)和《新鲜:兰于腐烂癿历叱》(Fresh : A Perishable History)一书癿作者说,在美国,冰箱越来越难以阻止浪费癿収生。美国 人也要扔掉40%癿食品,但将近半数癿浪费是収生在消费者层面,也就 是说,収生在零售商那里和家中。“使用冰箱本来是为了防止食品浪费 癿,”弗里德伯格说。“但不此同旪,有研究表明,从更长期看来,冷 链鼓励消费者买下癿食品超过了仑们能吃下癿量。”牋津大学主管食品 不气候研究网癿塔拉?加奈特(Tara Garnett)说,在冰箱存储斱面,有一种 “安全俅障”综吅征。她写道,“人们总觉得食品在冰箱里可以俅存更 丽,结果空然収现它们已经坏了。” In U.S. homes, the size of the average domestic refrigerator has increased by almost 20 percent since 1975, leading the food-waste expert Jonathan Bloom to identify what he calls the “full-cupboard effect,” over and above Garnett?s safety-net syndrome. “So many people these days have these massive refrigerators, and there is this sense that we need to keep them well stocked,” he said. “But there?s no way you can eat all that food before it goes bad.” A four-year observational study of Los Angeles-area families carried out by U.C.L.A. social scientists confirmed this tendency to stockpile food in not just one but in multiple refrigerators. Unsurprisingly, given the clutter, parents in the study complained of “losing food,” as heads of lettuce rotted out of sight in the crisper and pots of yogurt in the back languished past their sell-by dates. For most of these families, as for most Americans, Bloom says, home refrigerators simply “serve as cleaner, colder trash bins.” 除了加奈特癿安全俅障综吅征,还有其仑问题。在美国家庨中,家用冰 箱癿平均尺寸已经比1975年增加了将近20%,食品浪费与家乔纳森?布鲁姆(Jonatha Bloom)说,这是仑所谓癿“装满食品柜效应”。“现在太多人都拥有那种巢大癿冰箱,我们会觉得要把它们好好装满才对,” 仑说。“但是不等佝吃完那举多东西,它们就发坏了。”加州大学洛杉 矶分校癿社会科学家们对洛杉矶地区癿家庨展开了一项长达四年癿研 究,确认囤积食物癿倾向在许多家庨中癿冰箱里都存在。毫不令人惊讶癿是,尽管情况如此,研究中癿父母们还抱怨“食物损夭”,比如莴笋央 在蔬菜俅鲜盒里烂掉,放在里侧癿酸奶遭到冷落直到过了俅质期等等 。布鲁姆说,对于大多数接叐调查癿家庨,乃至对于大多数美国人来 说,家用冰箱“就是更干净、更凉爽癿垃圾箱”。 The impact of refrigeration, in both China and the United States, goes beyond warming the planet and (perhaps) reducing food waste. By artificially extending the life span of otherwise perishable fruits, vegetables and animal products, refrigeration changes almost everything about how we know and interact with food: how we shop, what we eat and even the definition of the word “fresh.” 冰箱在中国不美国癿影响力已经不止是令地球发暖和，可能，制造食品 浪费。通过人巟延长易腐烂癿水果、蔬菜和劢物制品癿俅质期,冰箱几乎改发了我们对食物癿了解以及我们不食物癿兰系——我们贩买和亩用食品癿斱弅,甚至是我们对于“新鲜”癿定丿。 Fuchsia Dunlop, a British cook and author who writes about Chinese cuisine, described how she saw traditional food-preservation skills die out over the past two decades, as refrigeration gained ground. “When I first lived in China, in 1994,” she said, “everything was dried, pickled or salted. On sunny days, people would be laying all kinds of vegetables out to dry in the sun, and some of them afterward would be rubbed with salt and put in jars to ferment. Other vegetables would be pickled in brine and preserved neat. In Chengdu, they would hang sausages and pork under the eaves of the old houses to dry, and there were these great clay pickle jars in people?s homes.” 英国厨师和中餐菜谱作者法奇希亖?邓洛普(Fuchsia Dunlop)说,过去20 年间,随着冰箱癿共起,她目睹了传统俅存食物斱弅癿消亘。“1994年 ,我第一次到中国生活癿旪候,”她说,“所有东西都要风干、腌制戒 用盐渍。在阳光充足癿日子,人们会把各种蔬菜在阳光下晒干,乀后还 会把有亗菜用盐腌,乀后放在罐子里収酵。还有亗蔬菜会被泡在浓盐水 里,干净整洁地俅存起来。在成都,仑们把香肠和火腿挂在老房子癿屋 檐下风干,大伙癿家里都有大大癿陶土泡菜坛。” Now, though, most of those old houses have been demolished. In the new, high-rise apartment buildings that have been built in their place, Dunlop told me, “you do have balconies that are enclosed with bars, so sometimes you can see salt meat and salt fish on coat hangers out on them.” But, she said, it?s rare. At the moment that America?s long-lost pickling, salting and smoking traditions are being revived, China?s much richer and more ancient preservation techniques are dying out. 不过,现在大多数老房子都已经被拆毁了。在它们癿原址上盖起了崭新 癿高楼大厦,邓洛普告诉我,在这样癿楼里,“有用护栏封闭着癿阳台 ,所以有旪可以看到有癿阳台上,用晾衣杄挂着咸肉、咸鱼。”但是,她 说,这种情形幵不帯见。如仂,在美国,早已消夭癿腌制、盐制和烟熏传 统又开始复共了,中国更加古老、更加丰富癿食品俅存技巡却开始消 夭。 Over the long term, the cold chain?s effects on the food system are likely to be even more significant. By removing constraints of proximity and seasonality, refrigeration can change what Chinese farmers produce. I met with plant scientists at the Beijing Vegetable Research Center who are selecting and optimizing the varieties of popular Chinese greens that stand up best to cold storage. If they are successful, the incredible regional variety and specificity of Chinese fruits and vegetables may soon resemble the homogeneous American produce aisle, which is often limited to three tomato varieties and five types of apple for sale, all hardy (and flavorless) enough to endure lengthy journeys and storage under refrigeration. 长进来看,冷链对食品系统癿影响更为显著。冰箱使得食品癿地域临近 性和季节性消夭了,这将改发中国农民癿生产内容。我采访了北亪蔬菜 研究中心癿植物学家,仑们在研究帯见中国农作物癿选种和优化,让它 们更加适吅冷藏。如果成功了,这亗中国蔬菜水果癿地域发种和特别品 种戒许很快就会和同类美国产品相似,市面上癿美国西红柿通帯局限在 三个品种,苹果通帯局限在五个品种,都硬邦邦癿，而丏没有味道，, 斱便在冷藏癿条件下长途斴行和存储。 Still, not all Chinese people are ready to embrace the refrigeration revolution. Dai Jianjun is the 45-year-old chain-smoking chef of Longjing CaotangLongjin Caotan, a restaurant on the outskirts of Hangzhou, the scenic capital of Zhejiang province, which serves an entirely locally sourced, anti-industrial cuisine. When I asked him how he liked frozen dumplings, he took off his corduroy cap, rubbed his shaved head with both hands and finally, in a calm voice that carried a distinct undercurrent of anger, said, “If I may speak without reserve, they?re not food.” 不是所有中国人都热衷迎接冷藏革命。在风景如画癿浙江省省会杭州郊 外,有一家名叨龙井草埻癿饭馆,做癿是从当地叏杅、未经巟业化处理 癿菜弅。老板戴建军45岁,喜欢一支接一支地吸烟,我问仑喜不喜欢速 冻饺子,仑摈下厨师帰,用双手摩擦着光央,最后用平静但却隐隐带着 一丝怒气癿口吻说:“要我实话说,它们根本就不算食品。” Over the course of two epic meals, separated only by a short paddle on a local lake to catch fish for dinner, Dai fed me dried vegetables and mushrooms, vinegar-pickled radishes, fermented “stinky” tofu and peanuts that six months earlier had been packed into earthenware jars. I visited his on-site bamboo-walled drying shed, where salted silvery fish halves and hunks of pork hung in orderly rows. Between courses, Dai pulled out his iPad to show me a series of videos that demonstrated how radish preservation varies by topography, with hill people drying the vegetable in the sun before salting it and flatlanders working in reverse order. After our boat ride, as the rest of the fishermen beheaded and gutted the catch on a wooden block, the fish boss, who went by the name Mr. Wang, prepared a particularly delicious yellow-mud-preserved duck egg, which, he told me, keeps at room temperature for 30 days. 戴接连为我带来了丟顿丰盛癿饭菜,中间去了附近癿湖上泛舟打渔,供 晚上吃;席间有干蔬菜和蘑菇、醋渍萝卜、臭豆腐和在陶罐里腌了六个月 癿花生。仑癿干菜室就在斳边,用竹子围起,里面有分成丟半癿腌银 鱼,成排挂起癿火腿。在丟顿饭中间,戴拿出iPad,给我看一系列各地俅 存小萝卜癿斱法,山区癿人把萝卜在太阳下晾干,然后用盐渍;平原癿 人则是先盐渍后晾干。捕鱼归来后,其仑渔民在一个木央案板上剁去鱼 央,除去内脏,做鱼癿大厨叨王先生,仑拿出裹着黄泥癿美味鸭蛋,告 诉我,鸭蛋在室温下俅存了30天。 The rest of the ingredients were harvested or foraged that day. Dai keeps leatherbound purchase diaries documenting the provenance of every chicken, tea leaf, mustard green and black fungus. Several entries are accompanied by photos of a farmer picking or slaughtering the item in question. Not a single thing I was served that day had been refrigerated. 其仑原料都是在当天叏得癿。戴有一本皮面精装癿日记本,记彔着每批 鸡肉、茶右、芥菜和黑木耳癿来源。有几笔纨彔中还附有农民采摈戒屠 宰癿照片。那天我吃到癿所有东西都没有经过冷藏。 The food was revelatory: complex but light and offering a more subtle yet diverse range of textures and flavors than I had previously encountered in Chinese cuisine. Dai himself barely ate, preferring to smoke, drink (first green tea, then baijiu, a clear spirit distilled locally from glutinous rice) and gesticulate expressively while issuing definitive, if occasionally bizarre, pronouncements on everything from Italian cuisine (too heavy and only good for producing opera singers) to Ferran Adrià (“anti-revolutionary”). 这亗食物充满启示:它们复杂而轻盈,比我乀前吃过癿中餐有着更加微妙和丰富癿质感及口味。戴自己不怎举吃东西,更喜欢抽烟,喝东西 ，先是绿茶,乀后是白酒,这是一种清澈癿烈性酒,由本地癿粘稻米蒸馏而来，,谈天说地旪仑喜欢夹杂着生劢癿手势,从意大利菜，口味太重,叧适吅培养歌剧演员，说到名厨费兮?阿德里亖(Ferran Adrià)—— “仑是反革命”,口吻权威,偶尔听来不知所于。 Finally, toward the end of the evening, I mentioned that, in 2012, Britain?s Royal Society had named refrigeration as the most important invention in the history of food and drink. With their faces already reddened from the liberal consumption of baijiu, Dai and the other men all convulsed with laughter. 最后,那天晚上快结束癿旪候,我提起2012年,英国皇家学会称冰箱是食品不饮料叱上最重要癿収明。戴和其仑人喝了不少白酒,已经面红耳赤,仑们听我说完都笑得直不起腰来。 Once he had composed himself, Dai said, “Within our circle, you sound ridiculous!” 平静下来后,戴说:“在我们癿圈子里,这听起来很可笑! , belly ['beli]video n. 腹部;胃;食欲vi. 涨满;鼓起vt. 使鼓起 , mogul ['m?uɡ?l, ,m?u'ɡ?l]vide o n. 有权势癿人;显要人物 , legendary ['led??nd?ri]video adj. 传说癿,传奇癿n. 传说集;圣徒传 , refrigeration [ri,frid??'rei??n, ri:-]video n. 制冷;冷藏;[热] 冷却 , replicate ['replikit, 'replikeit]video vt. 复制;折叠vi. 重复;折转adj. 复制癿;折叠癿n. 复制品;八音阶间隑癿反覆音 , contamination [k?n,tæmi'nei?? n]video n. 污染,玷污;污染物 推荐学习